Getting more from Mallorca
On my first few trips to Spain, the island of Mallorca was far from my radar. I assumed all that the most obnoxious Brits who were too late for booking Ibiza spend their holidays getting wasted in Palma.. (And I wasn't completely wrong). After stumbling across some pictures of the Dry Stone Paths of the Serra de Tramuntanas, I was shocked when I realized I was looking at Mallorca! So, I decided I needed to take a closer look. Hidden within the valleys of ancient citrus and olive groves is the picturesque village of Soller (pronounced So-Yair). Though the village is set inland, deep within the valleys of the UNESCO Tramuntana mountain range, the smell of salt in the air, markets boasting fresh seafood and gigantic lemons, and centuries old olive trees growing high along the foothills are little reminders of the nearby Mediterranean sea.
The Valley of Soller
Lovely side street off the main plaza
our view from the suite at Hotel el Guia
I decided, for several reasons, that Soller would be the best 'home base' to explore the region on foot:
Convenience - Soller is the largest of villages I've mentioned, so it is easier to reach via public transportation and also offered a larger array of restaurants, hotel, and shops.
Affordability- Bigger town typically means more room for competitively priced vacation rentals. I snagged the Mister and I a beautiful suite in the family run Hotel El Guia. Located right next door to the old train station, getting there was a breeze. Plus, you can’t beat the view or the fresh breakfast served in their lovely courtyard all for around 120$ a night!
Oh, and because it’s effing beautiful there!
Getting there…
The Train stop at the Scenic Overlook
Palma, the capital city of Mallorca is very popular among Euro tourists and many budget airlines, like Jet2 and Easyjet, fly regularly from most cities in Europe. Another great way to get to Mallorca is by ferry. Balearia and Transmediteranea run from Several ports in Spain including Barcelona and Valencia with an average duration of 8 hours. Though certainly not the American cruise liner one might be used too, they are a very cost effective way to get from A to B overnight. The cabins are basic, and the food definitely isn't great.. But waking up in a new place without having to worry about checking bags or rushing to the airport is worth it to me. If you choose the overnight route, do not.. I repeat, DO NOT, skimp and buy the common area chair seating. You will be stuck in a room with hundreds of people snoring and farting all night. Opt for a Cabin and thank me later.
Drive. Renting a car is hands down the best way to, not only get from A to B, but also to explore the tiny island on your own time frame. The downside is cost, as well as having to traverse the narrow roads of switchbacking mountains.
Taxi. The easiest way to ge to and from the airport and definitely the fastest is to hire a taxi or transfer from the airport. However its not cheap. this will set you back around 85$.
The Bus. The cheapest, but longest way. From the Airport, you'll need to get the Palma City bus station (the No. 1 Bus runs every 15 minutes until 10:30 pm, then every 30 minutes until 1:10am. Cost is 5 euro) Once at the station, You'll want to get the route 211 bus that runs to Soller. From Palma city to Soller is about 40 minutes.
Train. In my opinion, the very best way to get around. Certainly its’s most convenient to anyone who has ferried into Palma, but doable on the way out for those flying. The Ferrocarril de Soller is an antique tourist rail line connecting the city of Palma to the mountain village and port of Soller since 1912. The old wooden train takes about an hour and cost 18$ for single and 25$ for return tickets, but oh man is it worth is! The electric line runs up, over, and through the mountains (several long underground tunnels) stopping also in Bunyola and at a the scenic overlook above Soller. The slow, relaxing ride paired with breathtaking views of unspoiled landscapes is a wonderful way to start a Mallorcan holiday. Oh, be sure to have cash, as they don’t accept debit or credit cards at the ticket office.. which is right across the street from the main station.